Wine Advocate: 2023 Grenache 96 pts

The 2023 Grenache hails from a cool, wet season, and viticulture was, as ever, paramount to the success of the eventual wines. The fruit for this wine was harvested from four vineyards in McLaren Vale: two in Blewitt Springs, one in Kangarilla and one in the Onkaparinga Hills, from non-clonal plantings from the 1930s, 1960s and 1990s. The wine leads with floral perfume, crushed rocks and cool minerals on the nose. It has all the indications of whole-bunch characters—blood orange, white pepper, licorice, etc.—however, only 7% whole bunches were incorporated into the ferments. On the palate, the wine is spicy and lean, and it shows a wholly austere, savory side of Grenache. This has Nebbiolo leanings in its array of rose petals and wet asphalt in summer rain/petrichor. The tannins are grippy and grainy and make for a chewy drinking experience. Already after 20 minutes in the glass, this wine has opened up and softened, and as such, a large Burgundy glass is absolutely recommended. It's a beautiful wine, one that I like more and more the more I taste it.

REVIEWED: April 2025
DRINK FROM: 2025-2038