The Wine Detective, Sarah Ahmed (U.K.) 2015 Bekkers Syrah: “Probably the best modern-style McLaren Vale Syrah I’ve tasted.”

Posted on February 3rd, by Toby Bekkers in Reviews. No Comments

You might expect to see Syrah on Australian labels from cool climate wine regions. But McLaren Vale? Well, this is a truly Bilingüe, Fraustralian wine – Mr (Toby) Bekkers, the viticulturist, is Australian and Mrs (Emmanuelle) Bekkers, the winemaker, is French (click here for my report of a visit in 2015).   Probably the best modern-style McLaren Vale Syrah I’ve tasted. It’s intensely fragrant and complex with a rasp of black pepper to nose and palate, liquorice, five spice, peonies and inky florals, a gentle savouriness and a touch of mocha oak. As for the fruit, supple, concentrated but juicy blackberry and plum is sumptuous, yet vivid and fresh – very persistent. Tasted at home, I lingered over this sensual Syrah for three days and it never stopped giving. I loved, loved the tannins – fine spun, but mineral (iron filing) and present, as if interwoven with the fruit. With terrific perfume, depth, length and detail, it is a seemingly bottomless pit of delights. Bet it ages really well (if you can resist it now!) The fruit was sourced from the Clarendon and Seaview sub-regions. The ferment (18% whole bunches) was long, cool and gentle. The wine was aged for 20 months in large (500l) French oak barrels, 40% new.