It’s always a pleasure to receive a sample of Toby and Emmanuelle Bekkers’ ultra-refined wines. This latest sample was particularly keenly received because, I’m a fan of 2017 (a milder year) and I’ll be in McLaren Vale next month, judging at the wine show and visiting with producers. Let the preparation start now!
Bekkers 2017 McLaren Vale Syrah
Deep crimson with intense, rich berry to the nose, on day two opening out to show subtle smoky, charcuterie/cured leather notes and a fleeting hint of mint. In the mouth it reveals enveloping but vivid, pureed blackberry and raspberry fruit, with lightly worn, gently spicy, creamy oak and delicate black olive and fresh turned (sod of) earth and mineral nuances. The fruit retains freshness, even a certain bite, making for lovely persistence and engagement on the palate. The finish is long, fluid and involving, with fine, seamless tannins. Beautifully judged, this Syrah celebrates the fruit, but has the chops to age. I imagine it building in body and depth – developing delicious tertiary, savoury, spicy layers, yet never being heavy. Rather, retaining a spring in its step. 14.5%
Reviewed September 2019