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Sarah Ahmed, The Wine Detective, 2017 Grenache "made to age - though it is damn difficult to resist now"

2017 McLaren Vale Grenache


The fruit is sourced from 1930’s and 1960’s dry farmed vineyards in Blewitt Springs (98-107m) and Kangarilla (240-244m) on deep bleached sand over ironstone gravel and orange clay and Onkaparinga Hills (186-201m) on brown clay-loam and slaty siltstone. Harvested 20th March and 7 & 23 April, each parcel was fermented seperately, with 20% whole bunches, the balance fermented whole berry after a 5-6 day cold soak. The wine was aged on fine lees for around a year in aged French oak 500l puncheons. You pick up the minerality of the wine from the off. Even the nose has a crystalline quality, together with pretty violet florals.

On both days of tasting (the same bottle), this medium-bodied Grenache’s minerality shone through, finding echo in its sandpapery underlay of tannin. Hard to believe its weighs in at 15% alcohol. Whilst the fruit has a sweetness, even a touch of orange peel (for me a indication of ripeness) and, as it opens up, becomes sleek, creamy almost, its red cherry, raspberry and blackberry fruit retains line and definition. The palate is distinctly fresh-fruited, which keeps the sweetness in check too.


With plenty of nuance and structure,

this is a typically refined offer from the Bekkers

– made to age, though it is damn difficult to resist now!


I’d love to see it again in 10 years.


Reviewed 18/02/2019 

SARAH AHMED

THE WINE DETECTIVE 

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